Text and photographs by Shafi Rahman
Way
back when I was in college, a comrade, with whom I strongly shared the belief
that Indian villages will surround the cities and stage a revolution before we
graduate with a lower-second-class degree in English Literature, came late to
the class with his right arm in bandages. The curious teacher asked him what
happened. Sinoj said with a straight face: I was cycling past Puthen Pally and thought about theories on
cycling, lost balance and fell off.
We
were a select few at St Thomas College, Thrissur, and cycling was no joke for
us. In Sen Thomas College (as we called it), the children of affluent rice
merchants, jewellers in High Road, wholesalers in Sakthan Thampuran Market and
our own college professors came in variety of motor bikes – Yamaha RX 100,
Kawasaki Bajaj, mileage-plenty Hero Honda. While bikes stood under covered
parking lots, our cycles drenched in Kerala rains and always looked freshly
bathed, ready to ride.
My
first cycle was a BSA SLR,
manufactured by the TI Cycles in India with the licence from Birmingham Small
Arms Company, which also
manufactured cycles from 1880s as all cycles needed was large quantities of
standard parts accurately machined at low prices (Yeah, according to
Wikipaeedia). The cycle had a rear-view mirror, a ding-dong bell, a carrier on
the back, a light that worked on dynamo and a sponge seat cover that sucked
rain water and wetted my pants in abundance.
The cycles were our
constant companions while we scurried up and down High Road; while rode past
rotten vegetables at Sakthan Thampuran market; while we stopped to chat up with
Christian girls with fluorescent prayer beads around their necks. The cycles
waited for us outside public library where we read the paper backs and the Guardian,
which always arrived a week late. The cycles were with us when we threw stones
at helmeted policemen from Armed Reserve Police camps while protesting against
rigging of municipal polls in Nicaragua, detention of Nelson Mandela and our
own pre-degree board.
I gave up cycle as I got into newspapering and
needed to catch up with fleeting news moments. An editor asked during an
internship interview: Do you know what is the most important thing a journalist
should possess?
“Compassion,
objectivity, may be fairness?
No, he said. “Every
journalist should have a driving licence.”
As I travelled to work
later to Dubai, I was warned abundantly against perils of the road. “These
Arabs don’t die natural death. They live till they die of road accidents,” Mommali
Ikka who ran a local restaurant told me.
Later in Delhi, a
journalist friend spoiled my plans to buy a cycle. “Beware of Happy Singh. He is the guy with SUVs and he is out on the
road to kill you. Think of him every time you touch your toe on the pedals.”
When I landed up in London,
another journalist friend stopped me from buying a cycle with a curt warning:
“Journalists are dying of shrapnel wounds in Afghanistan and Syria. Do you want
to die of freak cycle accident?”
London is not a great
place to cycle around, especially with its freaky weather. Despite the frozen
water sitting against their skin and curse of numb toes, London cyclists brave
weather and scary traffic. The hep artist crowd in Shoreditch and other
commuters racing against spiralling tube prices hit the tarmac daily cycling
through riverside capital’s sinews. They fought with truck drivers and raised
middle fingers – that universal symbol of anger -- against oncoming traffic.
Despite the weather, there are many
happy cyclists in London. They move around with sense of purpose, through the
streets with blue-green light reflected on them off tinted office buildings
around Liverpool Street, Mansion House and Canary Wharf. They curse pedestrians
– the women who dressed out of the Prada
catalogues, men in ill-fitted suites, shining here and there -- who ignore
cyclists at the traffic lights.
London’s arty crowd and hipsters -- in skinny
jeans, deep V-neck Tees and headphones louder than big bang -- have been the
most important members of the city’s cycling crowd. Despite the black cabs
splashing puddles, the hipsters move around, carrying a collective unimpressed
look and aviator glasses on their faces. Every cyclist maps his own parts in
the messy tangle of the city’s streets and pedal across with a sense of
ownership.
The
modern-day bogeymen in two wheelers were enough inspiration for me to buy a
cycle last month. But the last straw came when an old friend and a good brother
started posting his cycle-pix and ride reports in the Facebook page of Cochin
Bikers Club. Ajith Varma, is one of the finest artists, who helped launch the
Middle East’s largest newspaper Khaleej Times and a former colleague.
While his lovely children grew taller
and adorable, Ajithettan remained
young, fit and always offered a quick smile. He is one of the people whom you
could ask “how old are you if you don’t know your age?” and you can easily get
the answer: eighteen. He stayed fresh spirited, like one of the meadows where
winter never bothered to visit. In FB he
cheered youngsters cycling all over the state and scripted Omerta Codes and offered
cycle babbles for Kochi’s cyclists.
In Kochi, these new set of cyclists
are blogging and attracting fresh set of pedal happy denizens. But the city’s
cycling infrastructure is pathetic and there was never an effort from the City
Corporation to build dedicated cycle lines and attract eco-friendly transport
system. Let us hope the renewed interest in cycling will change things for
better.
"In Copenhagen I cycle with one grandchild at the
front of the bike and another at the back, and a five-year-old grandchild on
his own bike next to me. That can be done if you have bicycle lanes which are
proper lanes which have kerbs and proper junctions. But in London, never,"
said Jan Gehl, who was in the UK recently to give a talk to Royal institute for
British Architects.
Jan
Gehl, an architect and planner helped oversee New York's recent move towards
widespread bike infrastructure and is part of building cycling architecture in
many cities.
Cities,
he insists, should be designed so people feel "they are invited to walk as
much as possible and to bicycle as much as possible", making cycling both
normal and accessible to all ages.
The blogs like Londoncyclists
keep a vigil and regularly list the accidents and loss of life of their
fraternity. Here’s a taste of entries from the blog.
·
9th cyclist to die: Brian Holt: Hit by a lorry on Mile End Road, part of
Cycle Superhighway 2
·
10th cyclist to die: Francis Golding: Hit by coach, junction
at Vernon Place and Southampton Row
·
11th cyclist to die: Roger De Klerk: Hit by the 410
bus. Cherry Orchard Road and Addiscombe Road (East Croydon).
·
12th cyclist to die: Venera Minakhmetova: Hit by Heavy Goods Vehicle. Bow
Road Roundabout E3 along Cycle Superhighway 2.
·
13th cyclist to die: Unidentified man: Hit by 205
bus. Whitechapel High Street, junction with Commercial Road. Along Cycle
Superhighway 2
Whether it is Kochi or faraway London, there is an urgent need for
building dedicated cycle lanes and to make them lively, liveable and
sustainable cities. Till then one should brave the traffic and keep the gung-ho
spirit. And, of course, never think of theories of cycling.
4 comments:
Beautifully written.Regards,
sundar.
Beautifully written,
sundar.
Excellent article.....Good Luck, Truly proud of your vagabond and adventurous life!!!!!!!
Ginu Zach
Commuted by bike in London for 3 years. Far safer than Cochin.
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